Canoeing With Alligators on the Old Santee Canal

When Hubby announces his intention of sweeping me off my feet and into an unstable craft in lizard laden waters, I put my foot down. I'm up for just about any kind of boating. However, if I am going to be in a gator territory, I'd rather not swim. Not that I have ever over-turned a canoe, but there is always a first time.

Just north of Charleston, South Carolina wander miles of waterways that once made up a vast canal system. Now set apart as a wildlife sanctuary and dubbed Old Santee Canal Park, the area shelters great egrets, little blue herons, water moccasins and lots and lots of alligators. Paths meander around marshy pools and through damp woods and wide walkways provide safe passage over mud flats and soupy green swamps. I crave exploration and will happily go for a walk, but I have no intention of getting up close and personal with a pre-historic green leviathan.

We agree to put boating on the back burner and explore the reserve from the safety of the boardwalk. Cyprus and sycamore trees tower over head and pink rose mallow blooms in the marsh. I take note of my surroundings, mentally cataloging the flora and occasionally stopping to see what fauna I might spy in the tangled undergrowth. A black and yellow garden spider stakes out his territory, his body hanging upside down in a zippered web. A monarch butterfly flits across my path. I peer over the railing to follow her progress and there, in the reeds beneath me, lies a four foot alligator. His eyes are black and his skin is the color of duck weed. I am overcome. Not with fear mind you, with awe. He looks so ancient, like a creature from the land that time forgot. Suddenly I cannot get in that tippy canoe fast enough.

We do a quick march back to the interpretive center and, for five bucks, rent a boat. In minutes, we clamber in and push off into the murky water.

Osprey peer at us from tree tops nests and great blue herons hunt mosquito fish in the shallows. Box turtles and yellow bellied sliders sun themselves on floating logs. We paddle into the far reaches of the canal system where wild rice grows and Spanish moss drips from the trees.

The channel narrows and we carefully navigate under a low green bridge. The air is still and warm and tickles my nose. I scan the shore for tell-tale gator slides. And then we see him-a ten foot beauty sleeping on the bank. I can't help myself; I want to get closer. We paddle once, hard, pull our blades out of the water, and silently drift in. The reptile opens his eyes and, apparently not happy with our intrusion on his siesta, shifts his massive weight, lurches into the water, and swims right under our canoe. I could easily touch him. My heart races. I am enchanted and terrified. And then, just like that, he is gone.

It isn't until later I learn that alligators jump. We never should have ventured so close to that old boy's domain. I was afraid of tipping my canoe and landing in his territory. In retrospect...I'm just glad he didn't land in mine.

INFORMATION PLEASE

Old Santee Canal Park is located in Moncks Corner, South Carolina just ½ hour north of Charleston. The park includes hiking trails, observation platforms, a boardwalk, canoe rentals, an interpretive center, a picnic shelter, a learning center, and the Berkley Museum. There are also tons of activities. It's open year round from 9am -5pm (Interpretive Center closes at 4:30). Cost is just $3 per person and kids under 6 are free.

Old Santee Canal Park is not only a great place to see wildlife first-hand, it is also home to the Stony Landing Plantation, a beautiful 18th century house furnished with reproduction period furniture. Open for tours daily.

Have dinner on the canal at Gilligan's Sea Food Restaurant in Monck's Corner (just minutes from the Old Santee Canal park) where not only will you find the best hush-puppies on the planet, you can feast on sustainably harvested local shrimp and recycle oyster shells. Yes, they plant the shells back in the oyster beds helping insure cleaner water and happy eating for generations to come. Open 11am-9pm and 11am-10pm Friday's and Saturdays.